LifeTime Wood Treatment by Valhalla Wood Preservatives Ltd. is a non-toxic, eco-friendly wood treatment that extends the life of both indoor and outdoor wood surfaces. It is suitable for most, if not all, applications like: decks, fences, siding, flower pots, picnic tables, furniture, raised planters, birdhouses, doors, windows, gazebos, playgrounds, beehives, even floating rafts and marina docks. LifeTime penetrates and hardens wood fibres, without creating any harmful residue in soil or water. Many choose LifeTime solely based off the fact that it is much more affordable than many other stains and it is a one-time, one-coat product which means no maintenance as it will not peel or fade as natural weathering enhances the finished look of the product. While working on an outside project it proves helpful to keep a bucket of the product close by to dip board ends, fresh cuts etc. For larger projects, set up a dipping tank on the ground that is large enough to completely immerse the wood in the solution. Allow wood to sit in the solution for a few minutes. Posts and other wood to be in direct contact with soil should soak for approximately 12 hours.
This product is best used on it’s own as other stains may react adversely and negate the weathering effects. You can still work with the treated products while they are wet as handling or walking on wet wood ill not permanently mark it, except if you sticker it right away. For faster weathering, and accelerated colour change, allow to dry completely (1-2 days) under normal conditions, then wet down with water. The more often the wood is exposed to water and sun, the faster the mature silver-to-dark-brown colour will develop. Since it contains no harsh chemicals, cleanup is easy with just warm soapy water for brushes, rollers, sprayers and hands. No solvents or thinners are required. To prolong the life of your wood, try to clean once a year to remove any dirt or organic accumulations. Wash only with soap and water with a strong bristles brush, or power washer.
Note: The use of oil based and latex products in combination with this product may diminish the effectiveness of this product. LifeTime treated wood requires no other sealers or treatments of any kind. One application will last for the life of the wood. Use care in applying solution as it may permanently stain fabrics, glass, vinyl, stucco, concrete, stone work or chinking. Do not use with fire retardant wood. Do not clean LifeTime treated wood with anything other than water and simple soap (if necessary). Be aware that urine and bird feces will significantly discolour treated wood.
For those projects you have on the go but aren’t quite ready to stain, we have the solution. Sansin has a product called Foundation, no matter how big or small your project is, it can be used on a wide variety of dry woods; from timber frame entrances to log homes, and many other types of lumber. This product contains UV protection which will help prevent greying during the construction period. It can last up to 6 months and does not need to be sanded off, but rather you can stain right over top of it, which helps with a more even application of stain, acting as a wood conditioner.
Spring time is just around the corner and so our focus shifts to gardening. A popular question is whether or not to use raised garden and/or flower beds. When considering to build a garden or flower bed you want to use high quality material to create a bed that is functional, durable, long-lasting and is safe for your plants and veggies. Here are a couple suggestions from our trusted staff at Weatherwise Cedar Products to consider for your spring project.
Yellow Cedar is a very durable wood, and life its sister-wood Western Red Cedar, it is also resistant to rot, decay and insects. Yellow Cedar is a dense wood due to the high concentration of tannins which can cause a longer drying time when staining your project. If the drying time is a high priority and you still want to use Yellow Cedar, one action we suggest is to sand the pieces with a very course sandpaper (such as 60-80 grit) to open up the grain in the wood as much as possible. This allows the wood to absorb the stain more quickly and have a faster drying time allowing you to put your project to use shortly after staining.
Western Red Cedar
Western Red Cedar is a softer wood than Yellow Cedar and is a preferred cedar choice for garden beds. As with all cedar products, we recommend the application of stain onto all sides of each board using a water-based stain (such as Sansin or Timber Pro) that is safe for plants and vegetables. Western Red Cedar is a light-weight wood when dry making it easier to work with and placing your finished project.
Pressure Treated Lumber
This has been a tradition go -to product for making garden and flower beds; however in recent times there is increased discussion and controversy regarding its safe-use for garden beds. Our staff recommends avoiding using pressure treated lumber for garden beds out of a caution of using a chemically-treated product around edible vegetation.
If you feel you are needing more information on any of these products please feel free to come in and talk to our staff here at Weatherwise Cedar Products or leave a review so that we can assist you with your projects.
Pressure Pus is a great way to keep pressure treated lumber looking fresh while also protecting it from the weathers elements. Not only does it enhance the natural brown tones of the pressure treated wood but it also is VOC compliant, water repellent, environmentally friendly and ready to use, with no prepping needed. For applying Pressure Plus you can do it in a number of different ways; brush, roll, spray or dip coat it on with ease. Clean up is also a breath with soap and water.
Rough lumber will absorb more stain due to the increase in exposed wood fibers. Your initial up front cost will be higher but it will add durability and longevity to your project.
Smooth lumber has less open fibers so the stain will not absorb as much. It is highly recommended you sand all surfaces with 50-60 grit to open up the fibers. Whether you’re staining rough or smooth lumber, it comes down to the look you are trying to achieve. Rough is usually more of a rustic look, where as smooth is a modern sleek look.
Now where to use your rough vs. smooth lumber is completely up to you, however; something to be mindful of is to use smooth faced products in areas that need to be cleaned, where there is less chance for spider webs and other outside debris to attach itself to.
Board Foot – is actually a measurement of volume. A board foot is one square foot, one inch thick. To calculate board foot = width in inches x length in feet x thickness in inches.
Running Foot – is used in woodworking and means the same as a lineal foot. Refers to a one-dimensional measurement of length.
Square Foot – Is a unit of area in the imperial measurement system. A square measurement is the 2-dimensional derivative of a lineal measurement, so a square foot is defined as the area of a square with sides 1 foot in length.
There are a few things to factor in when choosing your gate hardware; whether you are wanting to go for a simple functionality or an architectural element. Next would be choosing your hinges. When picking your hinges; a good rule of thumb to follow would be that 1/3 of your gate should be hinged. As an example, if you have a gate that is 36″ wide, you will need 12″ hinges to support the weight of it and to prevent sagging. Another rule of thumb would be when measuring out your gate always remember to take a 1/2″ off each side to ensure you will have enough room when attaching your hinges as well as seasonal changes which may cause the wood to shrink or expand.
Also another thing to consider would be the longevity of your hardware, especially if you have exposure to salt water/air you will be needing something that is either galvanized, powder coated, or stainless steel to protect it from the elements. Here are some options for picking out gate hardware:
- Hinges; want them visible or hidden
- Butt hinge or strap hinge
- Handle or no handle
- Needing a lock?
- Ring handle vs. thumb latch
- Hammered metal or smooth metal
- Antique or modern
**All our gate hardware is available to check out on our website under Our Products then Hardware.
Vancouver Island Western Red Cedar is used for its sustainability and longevity. Being that it is naturally rot resistant, makes it desirable to be used in our fence panels and many other applications. Along with it being pitch and resin free, makes it unlike other species. Red cedar contains thujic acid which is a crystalline unsaturated acid found in the heartwood of the cedar that helps against insect attacks. It’s got a low shrinkage rate, durable, light in weight, and is very fibrous; making it ideal for staining. Western Red Cedar has fine grain and a beautiful texture and although it is graded by the National Lumber Grade Authority it is usually graded by its appearance. The grade we use mostly is select tight knot; which basically means the knots in the wood are tight and sound, giving it the beautiful texture and appearance we strive for. The grade clear is virtually how it sounds; clear of knots (or small pin knots) with beautiful grain. Our fence boards are a standard and better which means; when produced, select tight knot is not taken out which allows us to deliver a higher quality product. We re-manufacture raw logs into select tight knot, clear, standard & better, and pallet grade yielding as much product out of each piece of wood, which increases our value adding.
Brush/Roller: We highly recommend using a brush to apply stain to your product. It’s an easy way to ensure that you have covered every part of your wood, and that you do an even coat. It can take a little more time but it’s cost effective because you have little to no wasted product. It’s a common misconception that brushing stain onto wood creates a lot of runs, but as long as you pay close attention and backbrush it’s easy to wipe over them to create an even application. Some people prefer to use a roller to apply their stain, which is also a great method as long as you backbrush to avoid pooling and runs.
Spraying: Although spraying stain is a commonly used practice, but we do not recommend doing it. For air spayers, the air used in the sprayer causes the stain to dry before hitting your wood product. Although it may look great at first, the stain is actually unable to soak into the wood properly, which takes away the protective capabilities of the stain. If you do choose to spray your stain, ensure that you use an airless sprayer, which prevents the stain from drying before it hits your product. There is also a decent amount of waste when spraying stain, which can become quite costly.